Vintage Auburn "Knockoff" Racing Wheels - year?

Those look like the ones on my '32 Auburn. A couple of mine are pretty bunged up from years of someone beating on them with a hammer. If these are more restorable than what I have, I might be interested in them. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

Hey Chuck, appreciate your input. Think they may be 1932? They do have some dings where most knockoffs have them --- where they are hit to loosen them, but are not too bad.

What's the best way to take them off the axle if they probably haven't been removed in a long, long time?

I have an MGB and get the parts catalogs. MGs had two styles of knockoffs: eared (similar to your photo) and hexagonal. With the hex nuts, the factory supplied an approx 1/4 inch thick steel wrench with the hex cutout in it and a short tang that you whack with a hammer. So the purists don't beat on and possibly dent their KO's with the lead hammer, the catalogs sell a special wrench with the cutout of the KO (eared or hex) and a long handle. I semi-remember that they are made out of some sort of high density, really tough, particle board, maybe 3/4 or 1 inch thick. It seems like they should easily break. I think if I were making one, I'd get a chunk of aluminum and whittle the hole in it, including a handle of sufficient length.

Beware the possibility of left-handed threads on one side, this to defeat torque loosening.

I've never removed mine. That is going to be a new adventure. Originally, there was a tool that was used to extend the leverage and give you something to beat on. If you can find the right tool, you will avoid further damage. If you must beat on them with a hammer, a lead type works fairly well, since it is a very soft metal.

BTW, I think the same knock-offs were used by Auburn in 1931, and probably in other yeasrs as well. Any Auburn experts out there?

KO's. Proper ones tighten to the rear on both sides of the car. This is because under braking the axle is stopped but the momentum of the KO causes the stub axle to twist. This twisting shortens the stub axle and jams the nut against the wheel stopping it. As the axle continues to turn the nut which tightens to the rear tightens. On race cars this is esp. important. If you're looking for period correct dents use a lead hammer. If you want less damage use a Snap On dead blow hammer. If you want no damage and correct torque build a wrench that grabs all 3 ears and cover the surfaces with deldren/teflon.

Thus the famous "Offside Undo" with an arrow engraved into some Britcar KOs.

I worked on a 28 Auburn Boat tail (ser#7) years ago and it used the same type of Knockoff hubs and one sid of the car was left hand thread and the other side right. The fellow we did the coachwork (wood) for i think used body fill or what ever to return one of each to the correct shape and had them re sand cast and machined to original. There was also a person at Hershey that was also selling repops of them too.

If you remake KO's they should not be cast! This is a safety issue. They should be forged or machined from billit. Consult an engineer before reproducing KO's. If they break or come off they can kill you.

Those are just as likely 1931 wheels as 32. One reason, Auburn made a lot more 31s than 32s, another is that the so called "late '32" wheel had a drop center rim. Either way, I believe the knock off is the same, but as others mentioned, threaded differently for right and left sides. You don't have any brake drums do you?

Mike

CAUTION!!!!!!! These are DAYTON knockoffs and they are DIFFERENT than Rudge-Whitworth knockoffs. A Rudge style hub is the common sports car knockoff and the winged knockoffs turn to the front to loosen. "Down in Front" is any easy way to remember this. If you look at a Rudge wheel the taper is on the OUTSIDE of the wheel and this helps tighten the wheel as the brakes are applied. DAYTON knockoffs have the taper INSIDE the wheel and the hubs are the opposite, you turn them to the rear to remove them. The hubs may be marked as to which side the fit on. I had a vintage sprint car years ago with Dayton wheels, and the old timers made a big deal about getting the hubs on the proper corners. There is a pair of these Auburn wheels in a local junk yard in daily use on a welding cart.